- Symmetry and Alignment
- Arm Holes
- Collar and Shoulders
- Cuff Button Holes
- Inside Jacket
Symmetry and Alignment
The left-right proportions of the suit should be equal. Check to be sure that central seams and features are truly centered.
Alignment of fabric panels is often difficult to achieve. In particular, check the tops of the shoulders, pocket flaps, and other seams to ensure that stripes or patterns are not misaligned.
Make sure that your suit is not too baggy. Inferior tailors will often cut erring on the side of a garment that is too large. Your suit should be fitted to your waist.
The length of the sleeves should be just right. Be sure to raise and move your arms when checking this point. The sleeve length should remain correct in every position. Above all, when you wear your suit, you should feel comfortable. No part should pull or feel tight when you move.
The fit of the suit around the arm holes is determined by the skill employed during the cutting of the fabric. The fabric around the armpits should fit your form and not be baggy.
Collar and Shoulders
Be sure to look at you back in a mirror when trying on a suit. Often the fabric across your shoulders will buckle if the cut is not right. Be wary of a tailor who attempts to fix this problem easily by cutting away the excess material. This will only result in another pitfall: a collar that juts away from your neck.
During your fitting you should have the chance to determine the exact placement of the waistline button (the top button on a 2-button suit or the middle button on a 3-button suit). The placement of other elements such as the pocket flaps and breast pocket are determined using the waistline button as a central point. Therefore, the overall proportions of the suit depend on the correct placement of this vital piece..
Be sure that your labels have been hand-stitched by looking at the underside for tiny needle marks. This will ensure that your lapel holds and maintains is roundness and shape like a bird's chest.
Many tailors use machines or glue that result in a flat, lifeless lapel. At Mohans's, all of our lapels are sewn by hand.
Cuff Button Holes
At the cuff should be four real button holes. Ready made suits often feature false button holes and do not have this real button holes as their placement will vary from individual to individual.
Buttons should be made of real animal horns, not plastic.
During your fitting be sure to check out the backing that lines the chest and lapels. The best quality backing will canvas made from a combination of linen or wool with horse, camel, or human hair. Without the right backing the shape of your suit will not last and may not look right at all.
The inner lining of the suit should be made of Rayon, not silk or polyester. Some rayons are made from cotton, corn, or even bamboo. At Mohans's we primarily use high quality Binba which is made from the outer husks of the cotton plant. Silk provides not friction to catch in the suit fabric yet provides to much friction against your shirt. The result is that should feel like two layers of fabric feels and looks like three. Polyester does not breathe well and does not provide the greates comfort.
We can personalise the inside of your jacket by embroidering your name on it. Inside pockets are also carefully sewn which can be fastened securely by our handcrafted button.